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Cosmetic Chemistry
Author(s):
Publication Date:
December 19, 2022
Copyright ©
2022 American Chemical Society
eISBN:
9780841299436
DOI:
10.1021/acsinfocus.7e5029
Read Time:
six to seven hours
Collection:
2
Publisher:
American Chemical Society
Cosmetic Chemistry is a concise, readable review of the principles of cosmetic science. The author connects theory to real life examples, stories, and anecdotes, making key concepts and phenomena much easier to understand. Topics covered are product types in the market and how their properties emerge from the product’s chemical components; physical phenomena, and (macro)molecular characteristics that play a key role in product development; and some of the technological, environmental, and safety challenges that field experts are searching for solutions.
Readers include anyone looking for a basic understanding of concepts involved in the development of cosmetics. Upon completion of this digital primer, a chemist will have a firm grasp of the scientific principles that underpin the functionality and aesthetic attributes of formulated compositions.
This book is coming soon. In the meantime, please contact your library or ACS sales representative for purchase options.
Detailed Table of Contents
About the Series
Preface
Chapter 1
Cosmetic Chemistry at a Time of Watershed Change
1.1
Cosmetics Safety
1.2
The Skin Microbiome and the Emergence of Tolerant and Resistant Pathogens
1.3
Personal Care Products and Hygiene
1.4
Addressing Environmental Issues: The Montreal Protocol
1.5
The Trend towards Biomaterials
1.6
Holistic Sustainability
1.7
Sustainable Raw Materials
1.8
Palm Oil
1.9
Polyphenols and Saponin from Quinoa Husk
1.10
Education—An Important Facet of Sustainability
1.11
Potential Endocrine Disruption
1.12
That’s a Wrap
1.13
Insider Q&A: Rachel Grabenhofer
1.14
Insider Q&A: Tom Branna
Chapter 2
Surfactants: Fundamental Concepts
2.1
Surfactants and the Chemical Classes of Surfactants
2.1.1
What is Surface Tension?
2.1.1.1
The Phenomenological Concept of Surface Tension
2.1.1.2
The Thermodynamical Concept of Surface Tension
2.1.1.3
The Molecular Dynamics Concept of Surface Tension
2.1.2
What is a Surfactant?
2.1.2.1
The Hydrophobic Part of a Surfactant and the Role of Hydrophobic Interaction
2.1.2.2
The Hydrophilic Part of a Surfactant
2.1.2.3
Closed Loop Coexistence Groups and the Main Chain Ethylene Groups
2.1.3
Ions
2.1.4
Hydrophilic and Hydrophobic Parts are Covalently Linked in Surfactants
2.1.4.1
Effect of Ions on Nonionic Surfactants
2.2
Monomolecular Layers Provide Insight into the Nature of Surfactant Adsorption
2.2.1
Mixed Monolayers
2.3
That’s a Wrap
Chapter 3
Surfactant Micelles and Structured Phases
3.1
Surfactant Micelles
3.1.1
Micelle Shapes
3.1.2
The Effect of Salts on Micelles Varies Depending on the Type of Salt Ions
3.1.2.1
The Effect of Solubilized Oils on Rod-like Micelles
3.1.2.2
Manipulating Micelle Shape
3.1.3
Manipulating the Self-Assembly of Surfactants
3.1.3.1
The Role of Cosurfactants
3.1.3.2
The Role of Hydrotropes
3.2
Lyotropic Liquid Crystals
3.2.1
Hexagonal Liquid Crystal Phase
3.2.2
Lamellar Phases
3.2.2.1
Super Concentrated Lamellar Phases
3.2.2.2
Steric Stabilization of Multilamellar Vesicles
3.2.3
Inverse Hexagonal Phase
3.2.4
Cubic Phases
3.2.5
Two- and Three-Phase Regions
3.3
That’s a Wrap
3.4
Insider Q&A: KP Ananth
3.5
Insider Q&A: KP Ananth
Chapter 4
Surfactants and Foams
4.1
Foam Formation
4.1.1
The Effect of Rheology on Foam and Foaming
4.2
Foam Drainage
4.3
Foam Rupture and Collapse
4.4
Defoaming
4.5
Tests of Foam and Foaming
4.6
Foam Rheology
4.7
Foaming Concepts Exemplified by Some Real Systems
4.8
Oleofoams
4.9
That’s a Wrap
Chapter 5
Surfactant Cleaning Mechanisms
5.1
Surfactant Cleaning Mechanisms
5.2
Wetting, Spreading, and Adhesion on Solid Surfaces
5.3
The Young–Dupre Equation
5.4
Mechanisms of Oily Soil Removal by Surfactant Compositions
5.4.1
The Roll-Up Mechanism
5.4.2
The Emulsification Mechanism
5.4.3
The Penetration Mechanism
5.4.4
Solubilization
5.4.5
Dispersion
5.5.
Beyond Cleaning: Modern Surfactant Compositions
5.6.
Biosurfactants
5.6.1
Acyl Amino Acids
5.6.2
Rhamnolipids
5.6.3
Fungal Glycolipids: Sophorolipids
5.6.4
Chelation
5.7
The Regulation of Surfactants
5.8
That’s a Wrap
Chapter 6
Polymers: Fundamentals
6.1
Introduction
6.2
Polymer Solution Theories and Applications
6.2.1
Regular Solution Theory
6.2.2
The Solubility Parameter
6.2.3
Flory–Huggins Theory
6.2.4
Partial Solvation Parameters
6.2.5
COSMO (Conductor-Like Screening Model)
6.3
Combinatorial Formulation
6.4
Polymer Concentration Regimes
6.5
Minimum Hydrotrope and Minimum Cosolvent Concentration
6.5.1
Cosolvents
6.6
Rheology Modification
6.6.1
Polyelectrolytes
6.7
That’s a Wrap
Chapter 7
The Science of Conditioning
7.1
The Hair Surface and the Need for Conditioning
7.2
Polyelectrolyte Conditioners
7.3
Polymeric Conditioners
7.4
Two-in-One Shampoo Plus Conditioner
7.5
The Chemistry of Complex Coacervates
7.6
The Importance of the Critical Overlap and Critical Entanglement Regions to the Polymer–Surfactant Complex Coacervation
7.7
Natural Conditioning Polymers
7.8
Hair Damage: Protection and Repair
7.9
That’s a Wrap
Chapter 8
Emulsions
8.1
Dispersions
8.1.1
Dispersion Equipment
8.1.2
Stabilizing Dispersions against Settling
8.1.2.1
Electrical Potential on Particle Surfaces
8.1.2.2
Stabilization of Dispersions According to DLVO Theory
8.1.2.3
Steric Stabilization of Dispersions by Adsorbed Polymer
8.2.
Emulsions
8.2.1
Emulsion Formation
8.2.2
Primary Emulsion Stabilization to Prevent Coalescence
8.2.2.1
Hydrophilic–Lipophilic Balance (HLB)
8.2.2.2
Phase Inversion
8.2.2.3
Lamellar Phase Stabilization
8.3.
Emulsion Rheology
8.3.1
Lamellar α-Gel Structuring
8.3.2
Thixotropy
8.3.3
Yield-Stress Fluids
8.3.4
Concentrated Emulsions
8.3.5
Polymeric Stabilization against Creaming or Sedimentation
8.3.6
Carbomer Gels Are Examples of Yield-Stress Fluids
8.3.7
Polymeric Emulsifiers
8.3.8
Polymeric Emulsion Stabilizers for Salt-Containing Compositions That Are Slightly Acidic
8.4
Water-in-Oil Emulsions
8.5
High Internal Phase Emulsions (HIPEs)
8.6
Pickering Emulsions
8.7
Ostwald Ripening Due to Solubility of the Discontinuous Phase in the Continuous Phase
8.8
That’s a Wrap
8.9
Insider Q&A: Hy Bui
Bibliography
Glossary
Index
Reviewer quotes
The content has provided me with new knowledge that is generally accumulated slowly throughout years working in this field, but that is rarely described in basic textbooks.
I definitely will use the book.
Robert Lochhead’s career in chemistry spans from 1962 until the present time. Following a quarter of a century in industrial research and development, he transferred to academia to chair and direct a prominent polymer science and performance materials department. His industrial career included a background in surface science and polymer science and scale-up and applications research. A big part of Dr. Lochhead’s life has revolved around scientists’ education, as is evident from his mentee, who won the IFSCC Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Award in London in 1988, and the 18 national best paper awards won by his students and the prominent positions that his alums hold in the industry. Lochhead is the editor of three books, the author of more than a hundred scientific papers and reviews, and a named inventor on 22 patents. The polymers he invented have enabled new and better technologies with beneficial societal and environmental impact. Dr. Lochhead has received many awards, including: (1) Maison G. DeNavarre medal (the highest honor in the Arts and Science of Cosmetics); (2) Merit Award and Lifetime Service Award (Society of Cosmetic Chemists); (3) Chemical Pioneer Award (American Institute of Chemists); (4) Education Award from the Society of Plastics Engineers; (5) Fellow of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, and the Royal Society of Chemistry. Dr. Lochhead serves on the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) committee, and he has served twice as the President of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and President of the International Association of Formulation Chemists.
